There's so much to love about multi-day bicycle tours - the sights, the smells, the disbelief.

People can't fathom the idea of riding a bike when they can drive a car. So, on our 195-mile, three-day ride from San Luis Obispo to Santa Clarita along Highway 1, we got some strange looks. And no, I wasn't wearing spandex shorts.

Some folks were curious and courteous enough to strike up a conversation. Others just stared. In either case, it was clear they couldn't believe anyone could actually do that. They were impressed with us, so naturally we were impressed with ourselves.

But that smug satisfaction of pedal-powered superiority disappears in less than a second.That's how long it takes a semi - rolling along at 60 mph about eight feet off your left handle bar - to blow by you on the 101.

That was when I had my own feelings of disbelief. What am I doing out here playing on the freeway?

But those moments of sheer terror were outweighed by the surprises of experiencing familiar places from a new perspective. The green blur of fields seen from behind a windshield became the fragrant aroma of plucked strawberries, fresh-picked lemons and ripe dill awaiting harvest. We saw stretches of the Santa Clara River flowing with water. We napped on the grass in the shade of a palm tree along Santa Barbara's beach front.

There's a certain satisfaction derived from carrying everything you need on your bike and traveling under your own power. But it's far outweighed by a king-size bed, hot shower and free happy hour. So we elected to stay in hotels, rather than camp along the way.

We kicked off our ride at San Luis Obispo's iconic Madonna Inn, a Central Coast landmark. The hotel is known for its vivid pink decor, as well as elaborately-themed rooms. We ensconced ourselves in the Old World Suite. Built to mimic a cave, it is centered on a massive stone fire place, and features a bathroom reminiscent of a cavern. The shower is a rock grotto with water cascading from above, while turning on the sink faucet sends a stream sluicing down a channel in the wall. Rather primitive, I suppose, like our mode of transport.

Our second stop was the Best Western O'Cairns Inn in Lompoc, home to the aforementioned happy hour. Free-flowing Firestone on tap was just one reason this was an ideal stop for a bike tour. It's within walking distance to several restaurants, offers free DVD rentals, a pool and a hot tub. Plus, the clean, comfortable rooms are spacious enough to hold two bikes. The cooked-to-order breakfast was a welcome surprise, too.

Our last night on the road had us at the sparkling Carpinteria Holiday Inn Express. It was on our route, which was good, because we were whooped by the time we wheeled in, and any extra mileage would have been devastating. We should have made use of their laundry facilities because we stunk after two days of riding in the same clothes. But food was a higher priority. We were so tired we barely made it out of the shower and down the block for Chinese food. Any thoughts of a dip in the pool or hot tub after dinner were forgotten. We each collapsed onto our own queen bed hoping we'd have enough stamina to finish our ride the next day.

The complimentary Express Start Breakfast Bar, which included a selection of juices, fruits, cereals, bagels, cinnamon rolls and scrambled eggs, went a long way to ensuring we could complete our journey.

By 9:30 we were rolling down Carpinteria Avenue headed for home. The miles passed quickly, even along the 126, which I wasn't looking forward to.

Before we knew it, we were home. And frankly, nobody was more surprised than we were. It's one thing to plan a 195-mile bike ride. But it's something else altogether to make that last, hot mile-long climb up The Old Road between Valencia and McBean.

But we made it. And believe it or not, we're already talking about our next trip.
Eric Harnish parks his bike in Newhall.

Tour the Central Coast on Two Wheels
Madonna Inn, San Luis Obispo
805- 543-3000
www.madonnainn.com

Best Western O'Cairns Inn, Lompoc
805-735-7731
www.bestwestern.com

Holiday Inn Express, Carpinteria
805-566-9499
www.carpinteriaexpress.com

"Bicycling the Pacific Coast"
Tom Kirkendall & Vicky Spring
ISBN 0-89886-562-X