Driving south on Pacific Coast Highway after a full day of exploring, we passed a line of cars waiting to exit Hearst Castle.
I wondered, had they missed the area's real main attraction? No disrespect to William Randolph Hearst's magnificent estate, which he named La Cuesta Encantada - Spanish for "Enchanted Hill." But I find the natural beauty along the coastline north of Cambria to be truly enchanting, especially when explored on foot.
The trail options are plentiful along Highway 1. We wandered the San Simeon Bay Trail on this visit, a first for us. It begins at the foot of San Simeon Pier, a replacement of the original pier where crews offloaded ship-borne materials used for constructing Hearst Castle.
After crossing the beach, the trail climbs the bluff to wind through the moss-draped pine and eucalyptus Hearst planted decades ago as replacement pier pilings. They were never used for that purpose; instead, they provide shade for hikers and a haven to chatty birds, all with something seemingly important to say on this bright, clear day.
Various spurs shoot off the main trail and lead to scenic overlooks. We stepped to the edge of the cliffs at the north end of the bay. Waves sloshed and foamed against the rocks below while the thick strands of kelp rode the surges and lulls of the incoming swells. The rough-and-tumble profile of the rocky coastline stretched south beyond the bay's sandy arc.
Continuing on, we found ourselves among different trees, this time the iconic Monterey pine. The path traveled straight ahead, with trees lining either side, creating the illusion of a forested hallway.
The steady onshore breeze caught us when we left the tree cover. A faint snorting sound grew louder as we walked above another beach. What looked at first to be driftwood logs turned out to be dozens of juvenile elephant seals.
We paused on the grassy bluff to watch them. They don't do much, at least on land. A handful made the effort to haul themselves to a new spot on the sand, but most lounged contentedly, stirring only to flip sand on their backs.
We lost the trail in the long grass and took it as a sign to begin retracing our steps back to the pier. The tantalizing scent of barbecue hung in the air when we began our hike and it was still there when we returned to the beach. Now lunchtime, we set about finding the source.
Our search led us to Sebastian's General Store, where we faced tough menu choices trying to decide between their tasty sandwiches. We both chose wisely.
I went with The Coastal Cowboy - achiote-marinated red oak-grilled tri-tip, dressed with avocado spread, red onions, butter lettuce, chimichurri and queso fresco in a toasted ciabatta.
And April raved about the Kimchi Pork sandwich, with its 16-hour slow-roasted pulled-pork shoulder, Korean barbecue sauce, cucumber, Napa cabbage, kimchi, sweet pickled vegetable medley, cilantro and sriracha, expertly packed into a toasted bolillo.
We continued exploring after lunch, heading north on Highway 1 to Ragged Point Inn. The coastal landscape changes dramatically here. Steep mountains crowd out the rolling hills and the road winds along cliffs that plunge hundreds of feet to the ocean below.
If your knees are sturdy, descend the Cliffside Trail 300-plus feet to a small beach. There you can watch Black Swift Falls - otherwise hidden from view - tumble off the cliff into a swimmable pool below.
Or, follow the inn's nature trail to the edge of the point. Lean against the fence and let your gaze linger on the wide expanse of the Pacific stretching to the horizon, and the rugged and imposing Big Sur coast to the north.
As Mr. Hearst might have said, "muy encantada" indeed.
Eric Harnish lives in Castaic.

San Simeon Bay Trail
insidescv.com/sansimeonbay
Sebastian's General Store
sebastiansgeneralstore.com
Ragged Point Inn
raggedpointinn.com