Since Highway 1 reopened in January after a three-year closure, spring was the ideal time for a weekend road trip to Big Sur.
April spent the week prior researching, and compiled an ambitious list of hikes and destinations on her phone. Her forethought was prudent, given the limited cell service in Big Sur. Seeing everything seemed unlikely, but we left the Cavalier Oceanfront Resort in San Simeon shortly after 8am on a Saturday determined to give it our best effort.
We headed north and arrived at Sand Dollar Beach before 9am. We followed the staircase down to the rocky beach and found the tide pushing waves close to the bottom of the cliff. It was still early and we didn't want to start the day with wet feet. Standing on the stairs, we watched surfers out in the bay for a bit before heading to our next stop.
We found one of the last available parking spots at Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park and headed inland first, exploring the Ewoldsen Trail. We followed the creek, which splashes over boulders and fallen logs. An unseen bird chirped and squeaked overhead in the redwoods.
Most people miss this quiet sanctuary, stopping here only to see McWay Falls. We joined the throng gathered on the shoulder of the road to snap pictures of the waterfall that lands directly on the beach. With the morning fog still thick, the falls were barely visible.
Continuing north, we stopped next at Partington Cove, a new Big Sur destination for us. We descended the steep dirt road and took a side trail that led to another cove. A seal lounged on the rocks, watching us with a sideways glance while its nose pointed skyward. After doubling back to the trail junction, we followed the main trail through a short tunnel that led to Partington Cove.
From up high on the cliff, we could see through the clear water to the bottom of the cove in places. As beautiful as it was on foot, the cove looked tailor-made for exploration by kayak, which would allow for getting up close to the nooks and crannies of the
craggy walls.
The Henry Miller Memorial Library was next on the list and we stopped to walk the grounds of the late author's home among the redwoods and browse the books for sale inside.
It was lunchtime, and since the famous cliffside restaurant Nepenthe was nearby, we stopped to see how long it would take to get a table. Only 20 minutes! The sun finally overcame the fog and yielded the view of Big Sur's iconic coastline that makes Nepenthe's patio such a destination.
This was not a day to linger over lunch, so we were on the road after a swing through the gift shop. Next stop: Andrew Molera State Park.
Here, our feet did get wet. Following the Creamery Meadows Trail to the beach requires wading across the Big Sur River. The day had warmed considerably, so the cool water was refreshing on our bare feet.
We didn't linger long here either, as we had another stop to make: Calla Lily Valley at Garrapata State Park. In a ravine just off the highway, calla lilies grow wild around Doud Creek, their white blooms contrasting sharply with the surrounding green brush.
Having reached the northern terminus of April's list, we began retracing our steps back to San Simeon. As the sun neared the horizon, we pulled over to catch the sunset.
I was surprised we made every stop on the list, but the day had one more treat in store. As the sun slid from view, it gave us the elusive green flash, a dramatic flourish to end a day full of Big Sur beauty.
Eric Harnish lives in Castaic, which is eagerly awaiting the reopening of its own scenic byway, Lake Hughes Road.

Cavalier Oceanfront Resort
cavalierresort.com

California State Parks
parks.ca.gov