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Philippe's Serves Up Sandwiches, Adventure and a Slice of L.A. History
February, 2006 - Issue #16
Landmark. Cultural crossroads. Living history. Those concepts all apply to Downtown L.A.'s Philippe the Original, home of the French dip sandwich. But they eluded me on my first visit.

The guy at the next table (complete with a parrot on his shoulder) was much more interesting, as was the other man across from him, methodically ripping a newspaper into long strips for no apparent reason. I was 9, and Philippe's was unlike any restaurant I had visited. Twenty-five years later, it still is one of a kind.

Age is one reason. In a city striving for eternal youth, Philippe's is an anachronism. It will celebrate its 98th birthday this year, having opened in 1908. The now-famous sandwich was another decade in coming. It was created by accident when founder Philippe Mathieu dropped the sliced French roll for a customer's sandwich into a roasting pan full of warm juice. That didn't faze the customer, a policeman, who ate the sandwich and returned the next day with some friends requesting dipped sandwiches.

The rest, as they say, is history, which has had little affect on Philippe's. Aside from relocating in 1951 to accommodate the arrival of the 101 Freeway, nothing seems to change. There's sawdust on the floor. The walls are beige. The plates are paper. Coffee is a dime. The customers are diverse. And the food is good.

The signature dish comes in several variations: roast beef, roast pork, leg of lamb, turkey or ham; all piled on a French roll dipped in the natural gravy of the roasts. The coleslaw, potato or macaroni salads are a perfect complement to the sandwiches. Yours won't be complete until you dab on some of Philippe's famous hot mustard, which is found on every table, and available for purchase.

Other popular accompaniments include hard boiled eggs pickled in beet juice, and pickled pigs feet, both on display in large glass jars at the counter.

The counter is an experience in itself. Philippe's doesn't have servers. Instead, they have carvers. Clad in beige dresses and brown aprons, most of them have decades of experience behind the counter. The ladies take your order, make your meal, collect your money, and hand it all to you on a tray. Seating is self-serve, so you find a stool at one of the long wooden tables and enjoy your meal family-style with a sampling of Los Angeles demography.

The clientele also sets Philippe's apart. Because it is adjacent to Chinatown, Olvera Street, the warehouse district, the high rises of downtown, and Union Station (which makes taking the Metrolink a convenient alternative to driving), it is a gathering place for everyone, regardless of skin color, occupation or tax bracket.

There's no telling when you'll see the newspaper shredder or the parrot guy, but any time you're in the mood for a hearty sandwich with a side of L.A. history is a good time to visit Philippe's.

Philippe's

Location: 1001 North Alameda Street, one block north of Union Station and Olvera Street, at the intersection of North Main, Alameda and Ord Streets.

Driving Directions: Take the 5 South to the 110 South. Immediately get into the far left lane. Exit Hill Street and go through Chinatown to Ord Street and turn left. Go three blocks and Philippe's will be on the left.

Parking: Free

Train Directions: Catch the Metrolink at any of the three stations in Santa Clarita for the 45- to 55-minute ride to Union Station. From there, walk across the street and one block north to Philippe's. See www.metrolinktrains.com for schedules.

Cost: $25 - Sandwiches, side salads, soft drinks, dessert for two

Hours: 6 a.m. to 10 p.m., seven days a week

Phone: 213-628-3781

More info: www.philippes.com


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Eric Harnish is a Newhall resident.
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