We bumped and rattled along Soda Lake Road, following its winding path north. Low hills rippled away on the left. The corrugated Temblor Range rose far to our right. Ahead, the unbroken flatlands stretched for miles under a ceiling of clouds before dissolving into the gray horizon.
This expanse of remote, rugged beauty spread across 204,000 acres between the San Joaquin Valley and the Central Coast is officially designated the Carrizo Plain National Monument.
Unofficially, it could be called California's big sky country. Sweeping views stretch on for miles, uninterrupted by trees or structures. It is a raw and wild land that refuses to be tamed, though some have tried. Their remaining homesteads can still be found here and there along the plain.
There are few amenities here, or people, which is more motivation to visit. Unlike a well-traveled national park, you won't find lodges, rangers, restaurants or even trash cans. You bring your own water and pack out your trash. There are just two campgrounds. We stopped at one for lunch; only three sites were occupied.
After eating, we followed a trail that led to the top of the hills behind the campground to take in the views of the wide-open country. The clump of eucalyptus that marked the campground looked out of place among the bald halls and flat plain.
We continued driving north and a herd of some sort caught my eye. Through binoculars, we recognized them as elk. Dozens lounged among the scrubby grass or bent over eating.
At Soda Lake, we followed a boardwalk path along the shore. The 3,000-acre lake has no outlet, so as water evaporates, it leaves behind salt deposits. It also means the lake is exceptionally still, and with a shoreline devoid of trees, it provides a perfect mirror image of the mountains to the east.
Our next stop was Wallace Creek, which appears to be just another gulley snaking down from the Temblor Range. But signs explain its geological significance. The creek bisects the infamous San Andreas Fault creasing through these hills. Fault movement caused two sharp bends in the creek's course that illustrate the fault's frequent seismic activity.
The sun setting behind gray clouds signaled that it was time to find a campsite. The monument is crisscrossed with unmarked dirt roads that lead to scenic hillside overlooks. And since camping outside of established campgrounds is allowed - aka "dispersed camping" - in many places at Carrizo, we found a place to park for the night.
The full moon made a brief appearance as we cooked dinner but was soon obscured by clouds. Gusty winds ushered us into the van early in the evening, and not long after, unexpected rain drops tentatively tapped on the van's metal roof.
Bright skies hung with a white scrim of clouds greeted us the next morning. We followed the often washboarded road back toward State Route 166, stopping often to double check the map.
We reached the highway around lunch time and headed for the Cuyama Buckhorn, a 1950s-era hotel, bar and restaurant about halfway between Bakersfield and Santa Maria.
The monument's solitude and wilderness are truly special. But there's something to be said for the benefits of civilization, like draft beer and
onion rings.
Eric Harnish lives in Castaic.

Know If You Go...
Carrizo Plain is an isolated area miles from the services and technology we take for granted. Prepare yourself accordingly.
• Bring a map, preferably an electronic one like Gaia that shows your location even without cell service. Download maps to your device beforehand. Road signage is inconsistent and numerous unmarked trails head into the hills.
• Carry water. It is not available at campgrounds.
• Pack it in, pack it out. There is no trash service on the monument.
• Gas up beforehand.
• Check the weather. The dirt roads become impassable in heavy rain.
insidescv.com/carrizo

Cuyama Buckhorn Roadside Resort
766-2825 cuyamabuckhorn.com