What a fitting place to end the summer: Perched on the aft deck of a ferry watching its frothy wake unspool in the blue waters off Catalina.
The Catalina Express was bringing us from Two Harbors to Avalon, and then back to San Pedro, concluding our field trip to the less-developed side of the island to mark my wife's last day of vacation before starting a new school year.
After an early morning drive to catch the ferry, followed by a full day of sun and hiking, we were content to sit and watch the island's rugged coastline slide by under clear, breezy skies.
In many previous trips to the island, we had somehow never made it out to Two Harbors. Situated at the west end of Catalina astride the island's narrowest point, the aptly named village occupies an isthmus that separates Catalina Harbor and Isthmus Cove on the island's windward and leeward sides, respectively.
It's a major change of pace from the bustling Avalon. At the foot of the pier, disembarking ferry passengers find a general store, patio bar and restaurant, beachside bar and restaurant and dirt roads leading to a 12-room lodge, campground and hiking trails.
Restless after our two-and-a-half-hour morning boat ride, we were eager to stretch our legs after landing. As we walked toward Catalina Harbor, the red soil, scrub-covered hills and scattered eucalyptus trees brought Australia to mind.
We soon came across the Civil War-era barracks, which still stand. Erected by the Union Army in 1864 as part of plans for a Native American internment camp, the red wood building with the wide front porch now houses the Isthmus Yacht Club.
Continuing on, the harbor's shore came into view. Something splashing at the water's edge caught our eye. We went to investigate, but the mud forced us to keep our distance. Judging by the fins that were visible, it appeared to be some sort of fish flopping in the shallows.
The trail led us to an overlook of the harbor, and, further along, a view of the steep, rocky coast that absorbs the wind and waves of the open ocean stretching to the horizon.
Hiking further seemed ill-advised, given the lack of a discernible trail and the abundance of prickly cactus that required our attention to avoid.
We retraced our steps to the village and stopped at the general store for cold water and souvenir browsing. Not yet ready for lunch, we followed a winding dirt road to an overlook above Cherry Cove. Below us, moored yachts rocked gently, and snorkelers worked their way through the clear water at the cove's edge.
We opted for lunch on the patio at Harbor Reef restaurant, splitting the Reef Burger, fries and poke in lettuce cups.
Drowsy after our morning hikes and filling lunch, we wandered over to the beach in search of a napping spot. We found it at the foot of the pier beneath a shady palm tree and stretched out our towels on the sand.
We spent the rest of the afternoon lounging, reading and observing the comings and goings from the public dock. It was entertaining to watch boaters arrive and hesitantly step from their bobbing rubber dinghies up onto the floating dock. It was touch and go for some, but everyone safely made the transition.
We could have explored the campground or done some other more productive activity before boarding the ferry back to the mainland - but that seemed antithetical to the purpose of our visit.
What better way to savor the last day of summer break than by soaking up the sun, wading in the water and listening to the gentle waves splash on the harbor's pebbled shore?
Eric Harnish resides in Castaic, which also is best viewed from a boat.

Island in the Sun
Catalina Express catalinaexpress.com
Harbor Reef Restaurant insidescv.com/harborreef